A West Coast Getaway – Glamping at Woodpecker Hut
By Kim Hobson
In Need of a Getaway
One of our favourite things to do when life gets a bit full-on, is to treat ourselves to a mini getaway somewhere special. We’d been working hard all winter – Jeremy working on his marketing business and myself balancing full-time work with part-time study.
Feeling pretty exhausted and over the work-study routine, we decided it was time for a little break.
The glamping craze has brought a fresh approach to accommodation and holiday options, and we’re all for it. Why would anyone want to choose a fancy hotel when for the same price you can have a unique experience in a bespoke setting?
We’d always rather choose accommodation with a bit of soul – something that works in with nature, something a little bit different. So we booked a couple of nights at Woodpecker Hut, just North of Punakaiki, on the West Coast of the South Island.
Driving the Great Coast Road
The West Coast of the South Island is known for its rugged coastline, lush temperate rainforest, and dramatic mountains-to-sea landscapes.
The Great Coast Road is one of the best road trips in New Zealand, the highway winding along the coastline, hugging bush-clad cliffs and dropping down to the wild sea below. The West Coast is also infamous for its rainy climate, with Punakaiki itself averaging about 299mm of rain annually.
Fortunately for us it was looking like we were set to dodge the stereotypical West Coast weather – the report was promising plenty of sunshine for the weekend.
The drive from Nelson to Punakaiki takes about 3 and a half hours, so we had plenty of time to enjoy the scenery on our way to Woodpecker Hut.
Arriving at Woodpecker Hut
Arriving at our destination we immediately fell in love with the rustic wooden hut with its cute pitched roof, nestled in the bush overlooking the ocean.
The sun was streaming in through large latticed windows, and it was surprisingly warm for a winter’s day. We opened up all the doors and windows, put some music on, and poured ourselves a wine to enjoy on the large sunny deck.
For us, glamping is all about switching off from daily worries, slowing the pace right down, reconnecting with nature, and getting an off-grid experience with a touch of luxury.
Woodpecker Hut provides this and more. While there is mobile reception at the hut, you can be a bit daring like us and choose to turn off your mobile data for a digital detox – thank me later.
When we stayed at Woodpecker Hut, it was powered by a small solar panel, the hot water was connected to gas, and there was a composting toilet.
It seems they’ve had a bit of an upgrade since – the hut is now connected to mains power, with a flushing toilet. The kitchen is still an outdoor covered space though, with a gas hob, barbecue and low-energy fridge.
We enjoyed the more camping-styled outdoor cooking experience, with the crashing waves and the birds providing a natural soundtrack. The rest of the afternoon was spent chilling on the deck, reading, and chatting.
As evening approached we jumped in the wood-fired hot tub to enjoy a glowing West Coast sunset over the rolling sea, only heading indoors after dark to crank up the fireplace for a cozy evening of, well, doing nothing much at all – I wasn’t complaining.
Canoeing Down Pororari River
After a slow morning basking in the the sun and drinking coffee at the hut, we took a drive towards Punakaiki, pulling in at Punakaiki Canoes for a look.
The guy who owns the small canoe company came out to greet us, and we talked to him for a while about his decision to leave the rat race to live the quiet life in this remote part of New Zealand.
He seriously lives the artist’s dream, spending his days painting and creating in this tropical setting by the river, his canoe business bringing in his main income. The walls of his studio were covered in beautiful paintings of all sizes, definitely worth checking out if you’re driving the Great Coast Road.
We hired a couple of his canoes and launched ourselves down the pristine Pororari River, which originates in the heart of Paparoa National Park, the mouth of the river finally pouring out into the ocean on the wild West Coast.
Paddling slowly upriver, we felt like we were travelling through a larger-than-life scene straight out of Jurassic Park!
Colossal cliffs towered above us, jutting vertically towards the sky, making us feel small and insignificant in our tiny canoes. The river was crystal clear, its beautiful tea-coloured waters stained by tannins from the vegetation.
Lush native bush and ancient moss-covered trees fringed either side of the river, the cliffs above dripping with greenery.
Nikau, rata, punga, harakeke and more – all crammed in and living in symbiotic harmony in the majestic Paparoa National Park.
The dense bush along the West Coast is like nowhere else in New Zealand, supported by all that rainfall. We paddled on in silence, the only sound coming from the singing birds and our paddles cleaving the water.
Passing a few minor rapids, we travelled further into the National Park before turning back to enjoy the journey in the opposite direction.
Canoeing the Pororari River is a different way to experience the river – the last time we were in this region we walked the Pororari River Track, which is also stunning, offering views of the river through the bush.
The Legendary Pancake Rocks & Blowholes
From Pororari River we drove about 1km South towards Punakaiki – next on the agenda for the day being the Punakaiki blowholes, or the famous Pancake Rocks.
These intriguing rock formations were formed millions of years ago when the debris of dead marine creatures and plants compacted on the seabed about 2km below the surface.
Intense water pressure solidified them into layers of limestone and softer muddy layers. Over time, seismic activity raised the limestone above the seabed, while water, wind and salt-spray eroded the softer layers of rock, giving the harder limestone layers the appearance of stacked pancakes.
The Pancake Rocks track meanders through these impressive rock formations along Dolomite Point, best viewed at high tide during a heavy swell.
Walking the Pancake Rocks track is one of our favourite things to do along the Great Coast Road – the force of the sea bursting through the blowholes is a truly mesmerising and invigorating experience.
On this particular day the swell was working, surging through the cavernous labyrinth of rocks and exploding into the atmosphere dramatically.
The smell of salty seawater filled the air, and rainbows danced fleetingly in the sunlight as it reflected against the sea-spray.
We took our time along the track, enjoying the unusual sunshine and trying to capture on camera the precise moment the sea was thrust though the blowholes into the air.
An obligatory beer stop at the Punakaiki Tavern was then in order before returning to Woodpecker Hut for another round of blissful relaxation and gazing out to sea – I could stare at those waves for hours, their rhythmic motions soothing and hypnotic.
Another Glorious Sunset & Our Last Morning at Woodpecker Hut
We were treated to another gorgeous sunset which was of course spent chilling in the hot tub, making the most of our final evening in this romantic piece of paradise.
Loath to leave the next morning, we enjoyed our final outdoor breakfast and one last soak in the hot tub before packing up. At least we still had a nice scenic drive ahead of us before facing reality and the prospect of work the next day!
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A West Coast Getaway – Glamping at Woodpecker Hut
It’s never a bad time to indulge in a bit of glamping, and Woodpecker Hut on the South Island’s West Coast is a feast for all the senses. We ditched the rat race for a weekend of solitude and rest in one of the country’s most scenic locations.