Seeking the Sublime – Wild Camping off the Beaten Path of the Wangapeka Track
By Kim Hobson
Enroute to Kahurangi National Park for a Summer "Holiday"
A holiday doesn’t have to mean jumping on a plane and checking into a hotel at some faraway destination. Sometimes your own backyard can provide equally memorable experiences.
A camping/tramping trip in your local natural surroundings can uncover hidden gems and reveal beauty you never even realised existed. During one summer holiday in Nelson, we ventured into the depths of Kahurangi National Park in search of a new adventure.
Nelson was in the peak of a heatwave, but for some reason we chose the mountains over the beach. I guess we were in need of the kind of solitude that can only be found in the wildness of remote valleys and rugged mountain ranges.
On a clear morning we set out from Nelson towards the small rural town of Tapawera, past sun drenched hops farms and tawny fields tinder dry from the late summer heatwave. From Tapawera we continued west towards the Wangapeka Valley where we would begin our journey along the Wangapeka Track.
We crossed the Dart Ford in our trusty little Corolla with no issues due to the water level being low, and parked up at the relatively empty Rolling River carpark.
I guess most people had opted for the beach for their holiday; at this point were thinking that might have been a wise choice!
Setting out on the gently undulating track, we followed a beautiful jade green river to Kings Creek Hut, a 20 bunk hut in a grassy clearing near the the river.
A further 5 minutes down the track sits the historic Cecil Kings Hut, allegedly built by Cecil King in 1935 from a single fallen red beech tree.
Cecil Kings Hut to Stone Hut - Wangapeka Track
Cecil King and a group of other men worked the gold mining claim near the hut on a government subsidy during the Great Depression.
Each summer for 46 years Cecil King would return from his Wellington Home to work his claim. He became a well known local character, offering a cup of billy tea and conversation to the increasing number of trampers using the track.
When he wasn’t using it, King kindly left the hut open for others. He died in 1982 and his family scattered his ashes near the hut.
Walking into Cecil Kings Hut is like stepping back in time. It’s a charming, rustic hut with an open fire and handmade wooden furniture. On the walls hang some of King’s old rusty tools and utensils – relics of the gold mining era.
We took our time in the hut, allowing our imaginations to transport us back in time and enjoying the shady coolness. It was a tranquil setting, with the birds chirping in the beech trees and the river bubbling away below.
From Cecil Kings Hut the track climbs steadily through lush green beech forest draped in delicate mosses. We were grateful to be under the cover of the trees, providing welcome shade cover from the blistering sun.
We encountered not one single soul on the track that day, and we felt like we had this entire fairy forest wonderland all to ourselves.
The river gradually became narrower, and we crossed the bridge half an hour away from Stone Hut – our destination for the night.
Stone Hut to Biggs Tops - Wangapeka Track
Stone Hut is a lovely 10 bunk hut at the head of a tree-engulfed valley. A grassy flat leads down to the crystal clear river where we sat for a while in the afternoon sun, submerging tired feet in the icy cold water.
A picnic table near the river provided a peaceful spot to soak up the last rays of sun with a cup of the wine that we were pleased we’d decided to lug up.
No other trampers turned up that night, so we had a good night’s sleep and rose feeling refreshed and excited for the day ahead.
An Uphill Slog to Biggs Tops
From Stone Hut, the track gets more difficult, crossing a huge slip and then climbing steeply to Wangapeka Saddle. At the saddle, we turned right onto a narrow route that leads to Biggs Tops.
The route is fairly rough underfoot, with a seemingly relentless ascent along a ridge through an impressive grove of nei nei (dracophyllum) trees.
Above the treeline, we stopped to catch our breath and have a snack before following the poled route that sidles around the flanks of Biggs Tops, finally reaching a saddle cradled in open rolling tussock land. From here we traversed right until we spotted a tarn nestled amongst the golden tussock.
By the time we’d set up our tent, the blazing hot sun was beating down, baking the landscape with not a whisper of breeze for relief.
There’s little to no shade up there so we had to get a little creative to escape the sun’s reach. Layers of clothing were quickly discarded, and we flung a sleeping bag over the tent to create a bit more shade.
I sunbathed outside the tent for a while, enjoying the views and reading my book. Pretty soon I was feeling the heat, so I retreated to the tent where Jeremy was having a snooze.
We had the tent fly open and I was pleasantly surprised at the efficacy of our sleeping-bag-over-the-tent technique in keeping the tent nice and cool.
Finally, Some Relief from the Heat
With the hottest part of the day coming to an end, we emerged from the tent to kick back and enjoy the scene. We waded languidly through waving tussocks, exploring the surroundings and enjoying the serenity.
Our water supplies were running low so we filtered water from the small stagnant tarn through my thermal top. We were a bit wary of the water, ensuring we boiled it sufficiently before drinking.
A Celestial Mountain Sunset and a Tranquil Night in the Tent
Soon, the day began to wane and nature’s daily theatre of light commenced, which is always on another level up in the mountains.
Soft light filtered through the ranges, painting the valleys and steep mountain slopes in a palette of the most ethereal gold. It was a sublimely celestial setting, and probably one of the most beautiful places we’ve ever spent the night.
From our lofty nest high in the remote tops of the Kahurangi ranges we basked in nature’s glory, with no one around for miles, just two tiny awestruck humans in a vast wilderness.
These are the moments that keep us coming back for more, despite how much of a toil tramping can sometimes be. It’s difficult to explain the feeling, but I do believe these experiences in the natural world strengthen our sense of belonging and help us to grow as human beings.
In that moment I felt a strong sense of connection to the source of creation; to the sacredness of Mother Earth; our home.
Long shadows cast dramatically over the landscape as the sun dropped below the western peaks. The temperature dropped dramatically, and the first stars began to pierce the inky blue sky.
We cooked some dinner in the jetboil and retreated to the tent to read, occasionally popping out of the tent to admire the moon and stars.
A Gloomy Morning Transforms into Another Sunny Day
With not a breath of wind that night, we enjoyed another peaceful sleep, the only sound coming from hundreds of little frogs singing near the tarn. We awoke to grey skies the next morning, and the wind was beginning to pick up.
It never fails to surprise me how quickly conditions can change up in the tops. We Watched the clouds rolling over the landscape as the rising sun turned the sky pastel pink and purple.
After a hasty breakfast we packed up and headed back over the saddle to the bush line. We’d initially considered spending a second night at Biggs Tops, but as the weather seemed to be taking a turn we decided it might be better to get off the tops.
After the steep descent back down through nei nei groves and beech forest, we stopped for a rest at Stone Hut and debated whether or not to spend another night at the Hut.
Stone Hut is nice enough, but we were feeling energetic, so made the call to walk all the way back to the carpark. Annoyingly, the weather began to clear and settle, and another sweltering sunny day progressed.
There was no going back though, and on we trudged through beech forested valleys, over swing bridges and past deep green swimming holes that appeared ever more enticing as the heat of the day amplified.
A Long Trek Back Along the Wangapeka Track with an Exciting Suprise!
It felt like an extremely long and exhausting day, even though there was very little uphill to contend with. Maybe the heat was getting to me, but I was starting to get cranky, dragging my tired feet and cursing our decision to hike all the way back to the carpark in one day.
We calculated the distance we walked that day, and I think it totalled approximately 25km from Biggs Tops back to Rolling River car park. No easy feat during the height of a summer heatwave in Nelson!
The river was calling to us, and we finally decided the only thing for it was to dive into its icy depths. We plunged into a deep pool, the water electrifying every tired cell of our bodies, refreshing our senses and relieving us from the suffocating heat.
A trout fisherman was fishing nearby, and I think we gave him a bit of a fright as we dove into the river. Hopefully we didn’t scare the trout away too!
Feeling revived after our swim we put our sweat-baked clothing back on, heaved our packs onto tender shoulders and continued on the final section of the track. A little way along the river we spotted some movement on the rocks above the rapids.
We’d heard that whio (blue duck) were beginning to thrive along the Wangapeka, and we’d been hoping to spot some. Sure enough, there were a couple of whio on the rocks!
We’d never seen these rare ducks before, so we were pretty excited to be able to observe them in their natural environment.
Whio are a species of duck endemic to New Zealand, sadly under threat from habitat loss, predation and disturbance.
They are one of few waterfowl species worldwide that live year round on fast-flowing rivers. You’ll often see them near or in rapids, and their presence is a key indicator of healthy rivers and streams.
We didn’t get any decent photos, but it was just amazing to see them for the first time. This little wildlife encounter served to boost our energy levels and spirits, and we tackled the final stretch of trail without too much complaint.
Finally back at Rolling River carpark we discarded our packs and collapsed into the car, as usual, with ice cold beer and non-dehydrated food on our minds. We chucked on some music and rolled off in our car, exhausted but happy with our decision to forgo the beach for a long weekend in the hills.
We’d discovered a new gem in our home away from home – our beloved Kahurangi National Park; we’d slept amongst giants under a blanket of stars with the hustle and bustle of civilisation far behind us; we’d pushed our physical limits once again, and lived to tell the tale!
Time spent in nature builds resilience in the face of challenges and hardship, it strengthens our bond with the land and reminds us that our biodiversity and natural landscapes are worth protecting.
I’m forever thankful to myself for being open to these experiences, and for pushing through the exhaustion and adversity that nature sometimes presents us with. It’s always worth it, and the magical moments far eclipse the difficulties!
Track & Hut Info
Track Time & Distance:
Rolling River car park to Kings Creek Hut – 3 hr 30 min (11.4km)
Kings Creek Hut to Stone Hut – 2 hr 30 min (8.3km)
Stone Hut to Biggs Tops – approx. 2hr 30 min to 3 hr (approx. 4.1km)
Track Level:
Advanced – Tramping Track & Expert – Route (Biggs Tops section)
Hut Info:
Kings Creek Hut – standard 20 bunk hut; bookings not required – first come first served; $5 per night
Cecil Kings Hut – basic/bivvie 4 bunk hut; bookings not required – first come first served; free
Stone Hut – standard 10 bunk hut; bookings not required – first come first served; $5 per night
Location:
The Wangapeka Track begins at the Rolling River car park, Wangapeka Valley, near Tapawera, South Island
Share:
Related Posts
An Exciting Surprise! Redwood Farm Glamping – Canopy Camping Escapes
Redwood Farm Tiny House sits on a ridge overlooking rolling pastoral hills. A sunny spot fully equipped with everything you need – it’s the perfect couples’ getaway for those after a touch of romance.
Seeking the Sublime – Wild Camping off the Beaten Path of the Wangapeka Track
Somewhere off the beaten path of the Wangapeka Track, lies the most sublime wild camping setting deep in the heart of the Kahurangi National Park. We endured the blistering heat of a summer heatwave in Nelson to seek solitude and wonder in the mountains
8 Key Elements for Powerful Black and White Photography
Black and white photography is a timeless, classic style that can convey emotion powerfully. We share some of the key features we’ve learnt to help create compelling black and white images.
A West Coast Getaway – Glamping at Woodpecker Hut
It’s never a bad time to indulge in a bit of glamping, and Woodpecker Hut on the South Island’s West Coast is a feast for all the senses. We ditched the rat race for a weekend of solitude and rest in one of the country’s most scenic locations.