The Infamous Liverpool Hut Hike – An Unforgettable Experience
By Kim Hobson
Waiting for a Weather Window
We’d been parked up at the beautiful lakefront Glendhu Bay Motor Camp in Wanaka for a couple of weeks so Jeremy could put his full focus into work.
We were also hanging out for a weather window to attempt the infamous Liverpool Hut hike in Mount Aspiring National Park, but Wanaka seemed to be stuck in a frustrating rut of weather – one day of stunning weather would be followed by three days of miserable wind and rain.
Not exactly the type of weather you’d want to get stuck on the side of a mountain in!
Enroute to Mount Aspiring National Park
Another concern with all the rain was the number of fords to cross during the drive to Raspberry Creek car park where the track begins. We weren’t sure whether the bus would be able to clear the fords, especially after all the rain.
Our patience paid off though, and finally the weather report promised settled weather for the next five days, so we got our bags packed and set off the next morning in high spirits.
The road through Mount Aspiring National park was long and dusty, but we were relieved that the bus cleared the fords with no issues.
Our bus was by far the biggest vehicle at Raspberry Creek car park, and we clocked a few expressions of surprise from other trampers as they were no doubt wondering how we’d managed to get the beast down this precarious road.
We we donned our packs, eager to get going. Rounding the corner we took one last glance at the bus, both of us secretly hoping it would still be there when we got back, along with all our valuables – surely no thieves would bother with the mission of a long drive down an unsealed road with multiple fords to cross right?!?
Leaving the bus is always one of our main worries when doing overnight/multi day tramps, as we have our entire lives in there!
Raspberry Creek Carpark to Pearl Flat
The track begins at Raspberry Creek Carpark, following the river along grassy flats through farmland, with views down an idyllic valley flanked by mountains and cascading waterfalls.
Feeling as wholesome as Heidi in the Swiss Alps, I floated airily along the trail to the sound of the river with the sun beaming down on my face.
Excitement levels increased as we made our way closer to Aspiring Hut. We hadn’t been out tramping in a while, and we felt like overgrown kids let loose in a gigantic playground.
The track along the valley is mostly flat and easy-going so we were energised, lost in light conversation about adventures passed and adventures to come, without the need to concentrate on footwork.
Finally crossing over into the national park zone, we spied Aspiring hut, a palatial 29 bunk hut with facilities to rival most hostels. After a quick chat with the hut warden and a bite to eat, we continued on the final stretch trail to Pearl Flat.
In the back of our minds we were aware that the most difficult part was yet to come, but little did we know just how challenging it would turn out to be… We soon spotted the sign for the final section of the track – the dreaded 1km ascent to Liverpool Hut.
The time on the sign gave a worrying indication as to the slog to come – 2 hours and 30 minutes for a measly 1 kilometre! We resigned ourselves to our fate for the following couple of hours, and so began the literal monkey-climb up through the bush.
A Steep Climb!
The trail was rocky and rooty, appearing almost vertical most of the way. Using our entire bodies, we heaved ourselves over boulders, clinging onto roots and branches as we put our full focus into every exhausting step.
Finally the bush thinned and the views opened up. We could see the hut in the distance, a little red beacon of encouragement.
We were almost there, but with one more tricky section to navigate – an intimidating slab of rock exposed to steep drop-offs.
It’s easy to see how one wrong move could be life threatening – it wasn’t to be taken lightly! Nevertheless Jeremy managed it pretty effortlessly, which made me a bit envious of his fearlessness and physical dexterity.
I summoned all my courage and shuffled warily (and wearily!) up the rock slab, slowly navigating and assessing each foot and hand placement. This sort of thing may be a breeze for some but for many it requires a bit of bravery, so I was proud and relieved when I made it to safer ground.
Unfortunately no photographs were taken during this section of the tramp – I was too busy doing my best not to die!
We were feeling on top of the world as we reached the highest point, with the distant white peaks of Mount Aspiring National Park to greet us, and just a short descent down to the hut.
Finally at Liverpool Hut!
The 10 bunk Liverpool Hut quickly filled up, and even though you have to book in advance online, the hut was still overloaded by an extra 2 people.
Luckily everyone was really friendly, and the usual warm hut banter and meeting of like-minded souls ensued. I must say we were kind of surprised by the lack of experience of some of the trampers and some rather inappropriate gear (regular sports-sneakers?!?).
One girl sat in tears in the shoe room after the climb, worrying about how she was going to get back down safely the next day, and for one UK couple, it was their first overnight tramp ever!
Definitely NOT the hut I’d be recommending to anyone wanting their very first overnight hut experience in NZ. I guess that’s what you get for an “Insta-famous” hut like Liverpool though.
It’s easy to see why Liverpool Hut is so highly sought after. It’s situated in possibly one of the most scenic spots in the Country – a picturesque red hut perched up at 1,100m with ridiculously epic views in every direction!
Whoever positioned this hut was definitely on to something. Not to mention the little red “loo with a view” – certainly not the worst spot at which to perform one’s morning ablutions.
Sprawling views below the hut revealed the shimmering river snaking along the valley traversed just hours ago. Jagged snow-capped peaks soared high above, and in the distance we spotted the neighbouring French Ridge Hut sitting just below Mount French.
Heavenly alpenglow painted the mountains in dusky-rose hues at sunset, and we went to bed with our hearts content with the day’s mission.
A 5am raucous kea wake-up call jolted us out of our bunks before sunrise with camera at the ready as we were treated to another show of light and colour. We climbed up the hill a little way, and the day dawned pretty as a painting while the wild calls of the mischievous kea-gang echoed through the valley.
We took our time in the morning, basking in the sunshine and drinking coffee on the deck. I can admit we weren’t exactly looking forward to the steep descent, but it actually turned out to be easier and much faster than ascending the previous day.
From the base of Mount Barff with the worst behind us, it was an easy but long meander back along the valley to the carpark. We were pleased to see the bus looking the same as we’d left it, and with tired bodies but fulfilled souls we set off back to Wanaka with cold beer in mind.
Well Worth the Effort
Liverpool Hut is definitely one of my favourite huts to date, with insanely stunning views that are hard to beat. Personally I’d say that parts of the track pushed me to my physical and mental limits at times, but it’s all part of growing and gaining experience in alpine environments.
For this tramp you’ll need to be sure-footed and fairly confident. If you’re inexperienced or afraid of heights this may not be the tramp for you.
Don’t push it, be patient with yourself, know your absolute limits, and take the time to build confidence first. It will pay off in the long run, and you won’t be put off tramping for life!
Trip Details
Glendhu Bay Camping info:
Glendhu Bay Motor Camp – https://glendhubaymotorcamp.co.nz/
Fees – Powered Site from $21 per adult per night, Tent Site from $19 per adult per night
Location – 1127 Mount Aspiring Road, Glendhu Bay, Wanaka
Track & Hut info:
Track time – 5 hr 30 min to 6 hr 30 min one way
Track level – Advanced: Tramping Track
Hut – Serviced Alpine; 10 bunks; bookings required
Fees – $20 per night (adult), Back Country Hut Passes not valid from December 1 to April 30
Location – track begins from Raspberry Creek Carpark, Mount Aspiring National Park, Wanaka
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