Paradise Found – Overnight at Mueller Hut NZ
By Kim Hobson
I’m going to do it. I’m going to jump on the bandwagon and say… that Mueller Hut is indeed, one of the most beautiful hut locations in all of New Zealand.
It had been on our bucket list for a long time, so we chose Easter Weekend to make the trek from Nelson down to Aoraki Mount Cook National Park to spend a night in the much-coveted red hut.
We’d booked the hut months in advance due to its popularity, so we had no idea what the weather was going to be like. Luckily, the report was looking promising.
Weather conditions in Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park are notoriously changeable, and the crown jewel itself – NZ’s tallest mountain Aoraki, is often shrouded in cloud.
We spent the night before the hike at the DoC White Horse Hill campsite at the base of the mountains and it was a cold night in our little tent. The sun disappeared behind the mountains pretty early, the valley quickly becoming dark and frosty.
The next day dawned bright and clear as we headed to the DoC information centre to check in and get the weather conditions.
The DoC officer informed us that conditions were set to be perfect for the next few days and that it had actually very recently snowed, so it would be even more beautiful up at the hut – mountains always seem to look bigger and better in the snow!
A Steep and Crowded Hike to Sealy Tarn
We started the hike at White Horse Hill car park, following the track as it meandered gently along the valley floor. The track suddenly became relentlessly steep as we reached the base of the Sealy Range.
This part of the track is not particularly difficult or technical, just steep and tiring. With a convenient staircase of 2000 steps zigzagging up the mountain, you don’t really have to focus on footwork, which doesn’t exactly help to distract the mind from the never-ending quad burn.
It may be the stairway to heaven, but at the time it felt like a real slog as we stopped and started to catch our breath and give our legs a rest. We watched enviously as the hordes of day-trippers flew up the mountain effortlessly, lamenting our heavy overnight packs but knowing all the while it’d be worth it.
The track to Mueller Hut is an extremely busy track, and although it’s only a 28 bunk hut, it’s a very doable day trip. It’s a high alpine route that’s relatively achievable and accessible for most people with reasonable experience and fitness levels.
We finally conquered the 2000 steps up to Sealy Tarn – a picturesque alpine lake perched on a ledge on the Sealy Range.
On a clear day you can see the reflection of Mount Sefton and Mount Cook in Sealy Tarn’s still waters. It was a scenic spot to stop for some lunch and bask in the sunshine before heading on to the hut.
The Final Section of the Hike & Arriving at at Mueller Hut
From Sealy Tarn it was another 2 hours to Mueller Hut – through tussock and boulder-fields, ascending a loose gravel slope to the skyline ridge. This was probably the trickiest part of the tramp, as it’s very steep and was a little bit icy towards the top.
We finally hauled ourselves on to the top of the ridgeline, our jaws dropping as we absorbed views of the magnificent Mueller Glacier stretching down through the valley, past smaller hanging glaciers and the impressive ice shelf of Mount Sefton.
Sidling along the ridge in the snow we spied the famous red hut in the distance, with the final section of the hike ahead of us.
It was a dazzling bluebird afternoon – surprisingly warm despite the snow. We went into the hut and grabbed a couple of bunks, itching to get outside again.
The rest of the afternoon was spent exploring and taking photos. It was a winter wonderland – the rocky landscape blanketed in layers of snow, glistening in the sunlight. As the sun began to drop lower in the sky, the hordes of day trippers left and the real fun began.
An Incredibly Beautiful Sunset Followed by Starry Skies
The overnight trampers were all on a similar buzz, a few of them being photographers themselves. The light kept getting better and better, and sunset was truly a sight to behold. We climbed part way up Mount Ollivier to set up our tripod, hoping to capture some shots that would do justice to this otherworldly mountainscape.
Perched on our rocky bird’s eye-view precipice we watched nature’s grand show of light unfold like a dramatic play in an ancient amphitheatre of rock and ice. The views were unimaginable – truly a dreamscape.
The skies were ablaze in shades of orange, pink and purple as the last light of the day bathed Aoraki, the mighty King of Mountains, in a glowing cloak of light and colour.
Far down below we could see Hooker Lake and Mueller Lake reflecting shades of pink and blue, with Aoraki looming tall over the Hooker Valley. In every direction the landscape came to life – Mount Sefton with its surreal ice-face also alight in heavenly pastel tones.
We looked back at the hut, its red exterior contrasting beautifully against the white snow, feeling truly grateful for this experience – grateful for New Zealand’s back-country hut system and for these incredible places that deserve our respect and protection. Mountains are places of wonder and reverence – places to be held sacred.
Darkness soon enveloped the landscape, and the night sky became studded with millions of twinkling stars. The Milky Way was out in full force in a celestial show of light.
We spent some time under the stars trying to capture some decent astro shots with another friendly photographer, all the while pinching ourselves and thinking that this trip couldn’t possibly get any better.
Hut Life & Resident Keas!
The rest of the evening was spent in the hut, with a bit of hut-banter and even some guitar-playing. A group of young guys had rocked up without having made a booking, but luckily they had a tent.
The hut wardens made them sleep outside in their tent, admitting that it would be a cold night for them as it looked like they didn’t have the warmest gear for camping in the snow.
Hopefully they learnt their lesson, but for us, the usual sleep-deprived night ensued in the hut. We woke tired but still buzzing, as another bright and sunny day was in store for us.
We rose early to watch the sunrise and photograph a group of Kea – New Zealand’s rare mountain parrots. Thundering avalanches rumbled down the rugged ice shelf of Mount Sefton in the distance, while the kea entertained us with their mischievous antics.
A close encounter with these curious mountain characters was the cherry on top of what was a fulfilling couple of days in the Mountains of Mount Cook National Park.
Can We Stay One More Night?
After coffee and breakfast, we started the descent back down the mountain, resigning ourselves to the tedious multitude of steps.
It was difficult to leave – we both agreed that we could have easily spent another night up there. Mueller Hut lives up to its reputation absolutely, and it’s obvious why it attracts hikers from all over the world.
With its breathtaking views and outstanding sunsets, Mueller Hut is undeniably beautiful, and totally worth braving the masses for.
We often think that whoever decided to plonk a little red hut in this picturesque corner of the Southern Alps must have had a real sense for aesthetics. The scenery just doesn’t get much better!
It’s without a doubt a ten out of ten for us despite the crowds, and we’ll definitely be back some day!
Trip Details
White Horse Hill DoC Campsite:
Fees – $15 per night per adult (Backcountry Hut Passes cannot be used at this campsite)
Location – 2.5 km from Aoraki/Mt Cook Village at the end of Hooker Valley Rd off SH 80
Track & Hut Info:
Track distance – 5.2km one way return via same track Track time – 4 hr one way
Track level – Advanced – tramping track
Hut – serviced alpine 28 bunk hut, bookings required
Fees – $45 per night per adult
Location – track begins from the Kea Point Track either outside the Aoraki/ Mount Cook National Park Visitor Centre or at White Horse Hill car park, at the end of the Hooker Valley Road, Aoraki Mount Cook National Park, Canterbury
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